TREC Recs: Florence
Photos: Alex Merrell
The birthplace of the Renaissance, Florence is a city of hidden gems, tucked off the traditional tour route, or peeking onto it with enough distance for people watching away from the maddening crowd. We rounded up some of our favorite stops on a recent trip to Tuscany’s capital.
Caffe Rivoire
Overlooking the bustle of the city’s main square, Piazza della Signoria, a morning at Rivoire brings an old world elegance to the classic Italian tradition of the cafe breakfast. Grab a macchiato and a pastry and watch the city wake up.
Farmacia SS Annunziata
As one of the oldest apothecaries in Italy, Farmacia SS Annunziata has been servicing Florence for over 450 years. The original store’s dark wood cabinets decorated in gold leaf are stocked with high end skincare and fragrances from their own product line, developed and perfected over centuries.
Museo Galileo
The Museo Galileo houses one of the most important collections of scientific instruments in the world. Examining the development of our understanding of astronomy, physiology, geography and mathematics, the museum is filled with telescopes, maps, globes and various other artifacts from a bygone age of invention and exploration.
Alla Vecchia Bettola
Rustic, unfussy, and charmingly boisterous, Alla Vecchia Bettola is the classic Florentine osteria you’re hoping to find. A perfect plate of house made penne alla bettola (tomato vodka cream sauce) and a fantastic glass of house wine will set you back 16€ and leave you grinning ear to ear.
Street Doing Vintage
Street Doing, a literal translation of the Italian saying “strada facendo” (meaning “along the way”), takes the hassle out of vintage shopping with their wonderful staff and fantastic selection of second hand couture. The shop features a well organized offering of both men’s and women’s clothing and accessories, with standouts like Chanel gold chain belts and Louis Vuitton suitcases.
Aquaflor
A visit to this theatrical, opulent perfumeria is a true olfactory dream. Billie Holiday croons softly from the back room while your eyes take in the gorgeous, vaulted space and your nose goes to work on a plethora of luxurious perfumes and colognes, creams and oils, room scents, candles, and soaps. Below the atelier is their laboratory, containing a collection of over a thousand raw materials from all over the world.
For those interested in diving deeper, Aquaflor offers laboratory tours, workshops and, if money is no object, private appointments with a master perfumer to create a bespoke scent.
Negozio Richard Ginori
As the oldest continuous producer of porcelain in Italy, Ginori has been the ultimate source for elegant tableware since their factory was established outside the city in 1735. The lovely shop displays an artfully curated selection of traditional ornate styles, hand painted pieces and modern alternatives, including a collaboration with British illustrator Luke Edward Hall.
Cammillo Trattoria
At first glance Cammillo may look like another delightfully unpretentious old-school trattoria but, despite its rustic air, this Florentine institution is on another level when it comes to the food. The menu is seasonal and significantly longer and more varied than most, and the dapper staff is knowledgable about the history of the dishes, many of which have been passed down through three generations of family ownership.
The standouts? Warm celeriac salad with egg and bottarga, homemade tagliatelle with lamb sauce, fresh prawns in curry with rice and homemade mango chutney, and tiramisu with persimmons. If you are in town for truffle season, the cod fish foam with quail egg and fresh white truffle is a dish of dreams.
