TREC Recs: Vienna
Vienna is an easy city to fall for. With some of Europe’s most mesmerizing architecture, a legendary arts scene, and a new guard of talented creatives shaking up food and fashion, a visit to Austria’s capital promises a fantastic mix of classical grandeur and fresh perspective. Here’s a crash course on where to go.
Meierei im Stadtpark
Meierei im Stadtpark is a lovely option for a decadent breakfast. Located in the middle of the park with a view of the canal, Meierei offers delicious multi course breakfasts featuring showstoppers like char tartare with fennel, apple & walnut and the soft boiled egg with sour cream & foie gras.
Tostmann Trachten
Trying on traditional clothing is a wonderful way to connect with Austrian culture, and no place is better for the experience than Tostmann Trachten. In Austria, many occasions encourage a traditional dress code and this family-run business has provided beautiful tailoring for men and women for three generations.
Karlskirche
The baroque cathedral Karlskirche, which would be unmissable on its own, is currently home to a breathtaking installation by Argentinian artist Tomás Saraceno. The Aerocene exhibit has recently been extended, and we happened to visit on the day the massive spheres were being cleaned by a courageous team. Scaffolding that was used for a restoration of the dome’s frescoes has been left standing to allow visitors to see the installation from several vantage points.
Feinkosterei Schwarz Hirsch
Feinkosterei Schwarz Hirsch is the perfect place for a crash course in Austrian fare as they do things tapas style, in smaller portions, so you can try multiple dishes. Try the mixed sausage plate, which comes with some of the best bread we’ve eaten.
Bitzinger Würstelstand
For a simpler bite, head to the sausage stand Bitzinger Würstelstand and order the cheese-filled Käsekrainer. Make sure to add mustard and horseradish!
Secession
The Secession is a stunning art nouveau exhibition hall born out of a movement by a group of rebel artists in the late 1800s to secede from the confines of the conservative fine art establishment. The rebellion marked the beginning of modern art in Austria and was spearheaded by artist Gustav Klimt. His piece Beethoven Frieze was painted directly on the walls and is on permanent display.
Hotel Sacher
The Sachertorte chocolate cake is one of the most famous Viennese culinary specialties. Hotel Sacher is a perfect place to sample this treat, either in their luxurious Blaue Bar, or the stunning Salon.
Song
Concept store Song has earned a reputation for its exquisite curation and unique viewpoint on fashion and home goods. The shop employs a galleristic approach, with cards displaying information on carefully selected designers, and frequent art exhibitions in the back room.
zum schwarzen kameel
Zum Schwarzen Kameel is a Viennese institution, with a history dating back to 1618. It’s a lovely place to stop for an aperitivo and a few of their famous open faced sandwiches.
Kunsthistorisches
We chatted with Jasper Sharp, curator of Modern and Contemporary Art at Kunsthistorisches, who has an interesting role as the modern eye on a museum collection that only houses works made up to the late 18th century.
A perfect example of contemporary work shedding new light on classical pieces comes with their current show, Caravaggio & Bernini. X-rays of one of the Caravaggio paintings on display, David with the Head of Goliath, showed another painting underneath, which inspired Austrian artist Klaus Mosettig to create his own series. The David Plates by Mosettig is a new series of fifteen large scale drawings depicting the life underneath a well known painting, from the grain of the wood, to the ghost of a forgotten work by an unknown artist, to Caravaggio’s hand, and finally the X-ray machine’s attempt to capture it all.
Palmenhaus
Palmenhaus was formerly a tropical greenhouse for Austrian emperors. It’s a gorgeous venue for a piece of strudel and a white wine spritzer.
Österreichische Nationalbibliothek
Around the corner from Palmenhaus is Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, one of the world’s most beautiful historic libraries. It houses more than 12 million books & objects.
Donauhof
A forgotten hotel built in 1900 is opening in the Spring, reimagined as a coffee shop, co-working and events space. In anticipation, Donauhof is hosting a pop up for the lakeside Austrian destination restaurant and boutique hotel Taubenkobel until December 21. The pop up features outstanding cuisine, served under contemporary artist Constantin Luser’s Vibrosaurus sound sculpture.