Exploring Southern Puglia
For the past several years, Puglia has be spoken of in hushed tones as Italy’s last unspoiled bit of coastline. The decidedly laid back heel of the boot boasts a kind of wild, rugged nature unseen in ritzier locales like the Amalfi Coast, incomparably delicious seafood, and a density of local tourism that may have you realizing, halfway through lunch, that you haven’t heard a lick of English in the restaurant.
Last summer, however, Instagram seemed to catch wind. Fashion girls and celebrities flocked to Fasano with such frequency that by mid August, when we were considering a visit to the region, we were already wondering if we’d missed the boat. Luckily for us, our lovely friend Alexandra O’Neill of luxury womenswear line Markarian had done her research, booked a two bedroom suite a bit lower on the map, and extended an invitation.
Her find was the newly opened Palazzo Daniele, formerly the family home of art philanthropist Francesco Petrucci, which has been converted into a fabulous pensione by hotelier Gabriele Salini. Since the Palazzo is off the beaten path, we’ve mapped out a list of spots to visit while you’re in the region.
Dine at Locanda del Levante
Set outdoors in a picturesque piazza in the lovely town of Tricasse, Locanda del Levante boasts a menu of delicious pastas and seafood dishes along with wonderful service.
Drink at Farmacia Balboa
Around the corner from Locanda del Levante is a stylish little cocktail bar situated in Tricasse’s former pharmacy. Balboa is owned by filmmaker Taylor Hackford, Helen Mirren’s husband, and winemaker Francesco Winspeare, the son of a local aristocrat and Princess Elisabeth of Liechtenstein, and offers up fantastic cocktails (or “prescriptions”) and light bites with a view of the town’s main square.
Swim at Bagno Marino Archi
We heard about this beach club from travel photographer Natalie Obradovich and were delighted to find an experience that was, as promised, as Italian as it gets. This gem is off the radar of American tourists so the pasta and wine are cheap and delicious and the crowd is delightfully local.
. . . and Lo Scalo
If Bagno Marino Archi is an exuberant, raven haired beauty, Lo Scalo is her sophisticated blond cousin. Situated amongst cliffs with stunning views of the Adriatic, watch kids jump off the rocks into the glistening waters while enjoying a lunch of fresh fish, before joining them for a refreshing dip.
Explore By BOAT
The hotel organized a boat day for us, which was a highlight of our visit. Our charming skipper Valentino blasted Pink Floyd and U2 while showing us the southernmost tip of Italy’s heel where the Ionian and Adriatic Seas meet, and the difference in coastline on each side. While we swam through rocky caves, Valentino collected sea urchins for us to enjoy with a bottle of champagne back on board.
Dance At BluBay
You didn’t think we’d visit Italy without hitting a discoteca, did you? Locals informed us that this was the place to go dancing, and we were not disappointed. The sprawling outdoor club is open seasonally, like many spots in the region, so check before you book.