Ringing in 2020 in Jaipur
Photos: Alex Merrell
We’ve all had a New Year’s Eve that didn’t live up to our outrageous expectations. Traffic was a disaster, the champagne was flat, the best friend got too drunk, we got too drunk, the kiss didn’t happen. Comparatively, ringing in a new decade seems like such a gargantuan enterprise that we applaud anyone who decided to spend it at home, in pajamas, with a tray of mini quiche left over from that ambitious Christmas party.
But sometimes an invitation lands in your inbox that’s too good to pass up. And so, last minute flights were booked and carry ons were packed for Jaipur, to celebrate the dawn of 2020 at the City Palace.
Known as the Pink City, thanks to its ubiquitous salmon-colored facades, this bustling metropolis is a feast for the senses. As the lapidary capital of the world and one of the most notable centers of traditional craft globally, Jaipur offers as much to delight in while packing into her tightest markets as while luxuriating in her opulent palaces. Subtlety is nowhere to be found. The city is a riot of beauty, an unruly assault of sensory delight.
Over our week-long visit, we amassed a collection of must-stops for your next trip to Rajasthan’s capital.
Suján Rajmahal Palace
Checking in to Suján Rajmahal Palace feels like wandering into a fantasy, if Wes Anderson had broken into Jaipur’s City Palace archives to immerse himself in the history of Indian opulence before creating said fantasy.
Built in 1729 as the second home of the royal family, the property was converted to a hotel in 1979. A few years ago, designer Adil Ahmad was invited to update the hotel, reimagining the space with a whimsically modern take on its luxurious history. The updated decor of the palace, home to just 13 rooms and suites, features no less than forty eight wallpapers, specially created for each room.
Start your morning in the 51 Shades of Pink breakfast room, take a dip in the Art Deco pool, and return from the day’s activities for high tea on the terrace.
Hawa Mahal
The Palace of the Winds, Hawa Mahal in Hindi, is the city’s most distinctive landmark. It was built in 1799 as an extension to the City Palace and allowed the royal ladies, who at the time strictly observed the “pardah” requirement to remain hidden from the public, to watch the activities on the street through the 953 windows while remaining unseen.
Directly across the street, you can find discreet signs that lead to a first floor lookout for a better view of the palace’s facade.
TikaM Chand
Walk a few blocks north from Hawa Mahal and you’ll come across Tikam Chand and his beautiful heritage camera. The tripod-mounted 1860 Carl Zeiss was a gift to Pahari Lal, Tikam’s grandfather, by the Maharaja of Jaipur, as Pahari was the royal photographer.
The stunning machine, built in the 1860s, is one of the few of its kind left in the world and houses its own darkroom, fixer, developer and film box. A print from Tikam starts around $3.50 depending on the size of the photo.
Amer Fort
Amer Fort is the city’s principal tourist attraction, and for good reason. The magnificent 16th-century palace complex sprawls across a hilltop with spectacular architecture, stunning views, and plethora of romantic tales from its storied history.
The dazzling Sheesh Mahal, Hall of Mirrors, is one of the Fort’s highlights, with walls covered in a mosaic of reflective glass tiles. It is said that this room was made for the Maharani, who was not allowed to sleep in the open, to feel as though she was viewing the night sky. When candles were lit at night, the room was filled with thousands of reflections of the flames, giving the illusion of stars sprawled across the walls and ceiling.
Don’t miss Panna Meena Ka Kund, a picturesquely symmetrical ancient stepwell tucked below the fort.
Caffé Palladio
This bright, beautifully decorated oasis is a perfect spot for lunch. Sample the inventive mix of Italian, Lebanese and Turkish fare while gazing at the colorful hand painted murals or sip a ginger lemonade on the pistachio marbled terrace.
Jantar Mantar
In the 18th century, Maharajah Sawaii Jai Singh II constructed five astronomical observatories throughout Northern India. The Jaipur observatory houses a collection of nineteen architectural astronomical instruments, used for measuring the positions of the planets with the naked eye. Included in the collection is the world’s largest stone sundial.
Make sure to visit this site with a guide as the instruments are challenging to understand without explanation.
New Satguru - The Textile World
Choose from New Satguru’s dazzling array of printed textiles, have your measurements taken, and a variety of custom garments can be made for you within a day and delivered to your hotel. Pro tip: if you have a beloved piece of clothing in your suitcase, bring it in to have it replicated in a different fabric.
Trunks Company
If you’re in the market for a truly fabulous way to display your personal treasures, be it a beloved collection or a whimsical pastime, a visit to the Trunks Company atelier is a must. The luxury trunk makers have revived the romance of a historical travel necessity and reimagined it as a luxury lifestyle item.
From the outside, it’s anyone’s guess what each meticulously crafted piece may contain. Gorgeous, bespoke trunks open to reveal an unexpected array of contents: a full dressing table, complete with jewelry storage and a pull out stool; a bar that includes a humidor for cigars and a poker set in addition to crystal glassware; a polo chest containing everything a player needs - from saddle to mallets, stirrups to spurs.
Photo: The Trunks Company
Cinnamon
Located at the luxurious Jai Mahal Palace, Cinnamon offers a wonderful mix of traditional and contemporary delicacies from the states of Rajputana, Awadh, Hyderabad and Kashmir. The superb service, resplendent ambiance and delicious food make for an unforgettable dining experience.
Idli
Historic Indian techniques such as tie-dye, embroidery and block printing get a Parisian interpretation at IDLI. Beautiful locally made clothing dreamed up by French designer Thierry Journois is divided into two shops, men’s and women’s, and showcased alongside the brand’s collection of textiles and home furnishings.
Hot Pink
Easily one of Jaipur’s most beautiful boutiques, this whitewashed shop features a sophisticated edit of women’s clothing, a rainbow of cashmere scarves, and a lovely selection of home decor.
Anokhi
Over the past 40 years, Anokhi has established itself as one of the leading forces carrying the ancient tradition of woodblock printing into the future. We first came across their stunning prints at Simrane in Paris, and were delighted to see a larger range of apparel, accessories and home textiles at the Jaipur store.
Teatro Dhora
This concept store features an assortment of apparel, jewelry, accessories, and housewares from a roster of India’s emerging makers, curated by owner Aavriti Jain.
Bar Palladio
No trip to Jaipur is complete without visiting the iconic hotspot Bar Palladio. The electric blue restaurant and lounge offers up classic Italian cuisine in a magical setting with wandering peacocks, a garden of tented canopies and sumptuous decor.
Verandah Cafe
Set at the edge of the sprawling gardens of the Rambagh Palace hotel, Verandah Cafe is the ultimate escape from the city’s bustle. Enjoy a decadent afternoon tea service or a weekend brunch in what may be Jaipur’s most serene setting.
