TREC Recs: Cartagena
Photos: Alex Merrell
A jewel of the Caribbean coast, Colombia’s port city of Cartagena is a vibrant symphony of Spanish Colonial architecture, artisanal craft, unforgettable culinary experiences, and color… Lots of color. It’s everywhere, from the tiered dresses of the fruit sellers to the facades to the cascading falls of bougainvillea.
And yet, amidst the loud visuals, Cartagena’s most potent moments are arrestingly intimate: the perfect cocktail in a church square, the older couple dancing across a salsa bar, an evening church service spotted through carved wooden doors. In this town where old world sophistication and sultry romance meet, there is no shortage of things to see, do and taste, and we’ve rounded up some of our favorites.
Casa San Agustin
Three colonial era mansions have been united and reimagined as the stunning boutique hotel Casa San Agustin. Preserved within its walls is an ancient aqueduct with an L-shaped pool running through it, one of the many features that make this spot a truly romantic hideaway. If you have trouble getting a booking here, due to the likely scenario that they’re already sold out, have dinner at their globally acclaimed restaurant Alma or get a massage at the spa. Ask for Arelis!
Pasteleria Mila
This bakery and cafe is the place to start your day. In addition to their assortment of cakes and pastries, they have a large breakfast menu, so head here for your huevos.
casa chiqui
Bursting with color and texture, Casa Chiqui houses a plethora of treasures expertly curated by legendary local aesthete Chiqui de Echavarría. While the shop contains an exciting mix of apparel and home goods, the real showstoppers are the large Werregue baskets, woven with a unique spiral technique by the indigenous tribeswomen of the Choco region. This is also where you’ll find the best earrings in town.
Restaurante Donjuán
Colombian flavors are given a Spanish edge with chef Juan Felipe Camacho’s Donjuán. The inventive menu, known to be loved by the country’s president, features a wide array of delicious dishes like tenderloin tataki with tamarind ponzu and grilled shrimp with passionfruit cream and pico de gallo.
st dom
Luxury concept store St Dom has quickly established itself as mecca for hunters of high end Colombian fashion and design. The spacious boutique features over 150 designers, meticulously exhibited against colorful murals and in imaginative displays.
cande
The seafood forward menu at Cande is a focused introduction to the best of classic Colombian cuisine. Elegant interiors are warmed by live music and folkloric dance, and the authentic gastronomic offerings are served up by a kind and attentive staff.
Cafe del Mar
Your first sunset in Cartagena should, without question, be seen from Cafe del Mar. The bar sits on top of the old city’s wall looking out over the ocean with bustling shared tables and thumping house music. The drinks aren’t special but they’re strong, and the view is unparalleled.
celele
Worth a trip to Cartagena on it’s own, a meal at Celele is a truly unforgettable experience. The restaurant evolved as a research initiative involving many exploration trips to study the mix of cultures that collided in the Caribbean over centuries, developing a culinary language that summed up these influences with a compelling contemporary voice. The initiative was an unprecedented success, and Celele is now known as one of Latin America’s best restaurants. Set aside time to go for the ten course tasting menu, and be prepared for flavors, textures and presentation that will stand out in your memory for years to come.
el barón
El Barón is a small, beautifully designed cocktail bar set in Plaza San Pedro Claver across from a colonial church. Thanks to its fantastic mixologist-crafted menu, the bar has picked up awards yearly for an imaginative cocktail offering, which has seasonal additions as well as permanent favorites.
fritos la mona
Known as one of the city’s most iconic street food stands, Fritos La Mona is usually situated in front of the Townhouse hotel and serves up an assortment of comfort food. Don’t miss the arepa de huevo, in which meat, cheese and a whole raw egg are stuffed into a ground maize dough pocket and fried, cooking the egg and creating a deep fried pouch of deliciousness.
agua de leon
This multi brand boutique has a great mix of womenswear, accessories and swimwear showcased beautifully in their well designed space.
maria
Maria is the sister restaurant to Donjuán and offers an equally elevated variety of imaginative dishes. Set under pineapple chandeliers and tropical murals, the flavors are as bright as the decor. Don’t miss the cured fish of the day and the sea bass on red risotto.
paletteria
For a quick refreshment in the heat of the day, stop by Paletteria and grab a popsicle from their delicious assortment of flavors.
nh galeria
This contemporary art gallery houses a wonderful collection of pieces from Colombian and international artists, housed in an airy space. A particularly moving highlight is Ruby Rumie’s series of photographs of the wandering street vendors of Cartagena.
la cevicheria
It’s hard to have a bad plate of ceviche in this town, but one of the most popular stops for the dish is La Cevicheria, thanks to a well publicized visit from Anthony Bourdain a decade ago. Should they be packed, as they usually are, El Boliche down the street is equally fantastic.
alquimico
Stepping into Alquimico feels like entering an expansive old world alchemical laboratory where the cure for any ailment is simply: liquor. Housed in a former textile factory, this nightlife hotspot is three stories (including a rooftop) of innovative elixirs, upbeat bartenders, and intoxicating electronic tunes.
